Traditional Bows: Types, Draw Weights and How to Choose One

Fletchwise guides are independent and hype-free – we are not sponsored by any archery brand.

A traditional bow is a bow that works on the same basic idea archers have used for thousands of years: the limbs bend when you draw, and the stored energy sends the arrow. There are no cams or pulleys, and no mechanical help at full draw. If your bow draws 40 lb, you are holding 40 lb at full draw.

Most traditional bows are also shot without a sight. Archers aim by feel and by looking at the target, which is why the style is often called instinctive shooting. Some archers add a simple sight or a bow quiver, but the bow itself stays simple, and that simplicity is the whole appeal.

Every traditional bow is a variation on a few shapes. The table below compares them side by side.

A compound bow uses cams to reduce the weight you hold at full draw, a feature called let-off. A traditional bow has none, so the draw weight is the weight you hold. A compound also usually carries a sight, a peep and a release aid. A traditional bow usually carries none of these.

That makes a traditional setup lighter and simpler to look after, but it asks more of the archer. If you are still choosing between the two styles, our recurve vs compound comparison and the compound bows guide lay out the trade-offs.

• Solid wood. Self bows and many longbows are cut from a single piece of wood. They are beautiful, but they respond to humidity and need more care.
• Laminated wood and fiberglass. Layers of wood and fiberglass are glued together. This is the most common build for modern recurves and horse bows because it is stable and durable.
• Traditional composite. Historic horse bows used wood, horn and sinew. Modern replicas exist, but they are more sensitive to moisture and heat than a laminate bow.

Draw weight is how many pounds you pull at a given draw length. By the usual standard it is measured at 28 inches, and a bow typically gains roughly two to three pounds for each extra inch you draw. If your draw length is longer than 28 inches, your real draw weight will be higher than the number on the limb.

For a first bow, lighter is better. Many archers start somewhere around 25 to 35 lb, then move up once their form is steady. A good test is whether you can draw smoothly, hold for a moment and release without your arm shaking. If you cannot, the bow is too heavy for you right now. Hunters should also check local regulations, because minimum draw weights for game vary by state and species.

Longer bows are usually smoother and more forgiving when you draw far. Shorter bows are easier to carry and fast to shoot, but they can stack, meaning the draw weight climbs sharply near full draw. If your draw length is long, a very short bow is a poor match unless it is built to handle it, as horse bows are.

Do not assume any string fits any bow. Many traditional bows are made for Dacron strings, and some wooden bows can be damaged by low-stretch fast-flight strings. Check what the maker rates your bow for, keep wax on the string, inspect it for fraying, and carry a spare. Our bowstring guide covers materials and care.

• Arrows matched to your bow. Spine, length and weight have to suit your draw weight. See the arrows guide.
• Finger protection. A shooting tab or glove, or a thumb ring if you shoot a horse bow.
• An arm guard. It protects your forearm from the string. Our arm guard guide explains what to look for.
• A bow stringer. It strings the bow without twisting the limbs.
• A quiver. Back, hip and side quivers are all common. See traditional bow quivers.
• A target. Start with one that stops arrows safely. See the targets guide.

Most traditional archers shoot instinctively. That means they focus on the target and let repetition guide the shot. Some use a gap method, where they pick a reference point on the target at a known distance. Neither needs a sight. What matters more is consistent anchor, steady back tension and a clean release, and a few weeks of regular practice usually shows more improvement than any piece of gear.

Keep a traditional bow out of hot cars and damp rooms. Heat can weaken glue lines and moisture can affect wood and composite limbs. Many archers unstring a wooden bow after the session, but follow the maker’s advice for your bow. A proper case helps, and our bow case guide covers the options.

Once you know the type you like, these guides go deeper:

• Traditional recurve bow guide: one-piece vs takedown, ILF and limb fit.
• Flatbow and self bow guide: wide-limbed wooden bows.
• Mongolian bow guide: construction, thumb draw and modern replicas.
• Horse bow guide: what makes the style different.
• Traditional bow and arrow starter guide: what a beginner needs.
• Traditional bow quiver guide: back, hip and bow-mounted options.

Most buying advice starts with brands. It is more useful to start with how you plan to shoot.

The second question is how much weight you can hold. The third is how much you want to tinker. A takedown recurve rewards tinkering, because you can swap limbs and fittings. A one-piece wooden bow is simpler, and what you buy is what you shoot.

Draw length decides which bow length and arrow length suit you. A common quick estimate is your arm span, measured fingertip to fingertip with your arms out, divided by 2.5. Someone with a 70-inch span ends up at about 28 inches. It is only an estimate, so confirm it with a coach or an archery shop that measures draw length at full draw.

Your real draw length can differ from the estimate, especially if you use a thumb draw or a deep anchor. Re-check it as your form develops, because many beginners find their draw length changes after a few weeks of practice.

Beginners usually improve fastest with short, regular sessions rather than one long weekend of shooting. Many coaches suggest something like this:

• Week 1. Shoot from a few paces at a large target. Concentrate on stance, a steady draw and a consistent anchor point. Do not worry about scores.
• Week 2. Add distance slowly. Keep the same routine for every arrow.
• Week 3. Pay attention to your release and follow-through. Hold your position until the arrow lands.
• Week 4. Start grouping arrows. If your group is inconsistent, check your arrows and bow setup before blaming your form.

Stop a session when your arm starts to shake. Tired shooting teaches bad habits, and fatigue is when injuries happen.

• “Traditional bows are too slow to be useful.” They are slower than a compound at the same draw weight, but they are fast enough for target shooting, field archery and, within legal limits, hunting.
• “Heavier is better.” A heavier bow only helps if you can draw it cleanly. A lighter bow shot well beats a heavier one shot badly.
• “You need a sight to hit anything.” Instinctive shooters regularly hit small targets. It takes practice, not a sight.
• “Any arrow will do.” Arrows must match the bow’s weight and your draw length, or they fly badly and can be unsafe.

• Never dry-fire a bow. Releasing without an arrow can damage the limbs and injure you.
• Inspect arrows, strings and limbs before each session.
• Wear an arm guard and finger protection.
• Shoot only with a safe backstop and a clear area behind the target.
• Learn from a coach or a club if you can. Good habits early are easier than fixing bad ones later.

We make custom quivers, arm guards and team gear with names and club logos. Tell us what your club needs.

See Custom Archery Gear