Flatbow and Self Bow: What They Are and How They Shoot

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The name describes the limbs. A flatbow’s limbs are wide and flat, with a rectangular cross section, and they bend along most of their length. Unlike a recurve, the tips do not curve away from the archer. The design is closely related to the longbow, but where a classic English longbow has a narrower, D-shaped limb, a flatbow’s limb is wider and flatter.

Flatbows are strongly associated with North American traditions, and the term “American flatbow” is common among modern bowyers.

A self bow is made from a single piece of wood, called a stave. Nothing is glued onto the back or belly. By contrast, a backed bow has a layer such as rawhide, sinew or another wood bonded to the back to strengthen it. A laminated bow combines several layers of wood or fiberglass.

Classic woods for self bows include osage orange and hickory, among others. Each wood has its own character, and a skilled bowyer chooses the stave carefully.

A flatbow is usually calm and stable in the hand. It has no strong recurve to add speed, so it is a little slower than a recurve of the same draw weight, but many archers value the smoothness and the quiet shot. Compared with a longbow, a flatbow’s wide limbs let a bowyer make a shorter bow without as much stress, which can make it easier to carry and use.

As with any traditional bow, begin light. Wooden bows do not forgive an overdraw: drawing far past the length the bowyer designed it for can crack the limb. Know your draw length and stay within it.

Over time, a wooden bow can take a slight permanent bend, known as set or string follow. A small amount is normal. Keep the bow out of damp rooms and hot cars, and use a bow stringer to avoid twisting the limbs when stringing. A proper case helps, so see our bow case guide.

The two are close relatives, and the best way to decide is to handle both. If you want a faster, shorter bow, a traditional recurve may suit you better.

You will need arrows matched to the bow’s weight, a string rated for the bow, a tab or glove, an arm guard and a stringer. Wood and carbon arrows can both work if they are spined correctly. The traditional bow and arrow starter guide walks through each item.

Traditional makers choose woods that can handle both compression on the belly and stretching on the back. Osage orange and hickory are among the classic choices. Many modern flatbows are laminated, with strips of wood glued together. Some use bamboo or another strong layer as a backing, which makes the bow more durable.

When you buy, ask what the bow is made from and whether it is a self bow, a backed bow or a laminate. They behave differently and need slightly different care.

• Always use a bow stringer, and string the bow smoothly.
• Never draw an unstrung bow or dry-fire it.
• Inspect the limbs before each session for cracks, lifts or deep dents.
• Stop shooting if you hear a crack or see the limb change shape.
• Keep the bow in a case, away from heat, when you travel.

• What is it made of, and is it a self bow, a backed bow or a laminate?
• What draw weight, measured at what draw length?
• What string does the maker recommend?
• What brace height does the maker advise?
• Is it right-handed or left-handed?
• What is the maker’s repair and return policy?

Wide, flat-limbed wooden bows have a long history in North America, and modern bowyers have revived the style for target shooting, field archery and hunting. The appeal has not changed: a flatbow is made mostly of wood, it has no moving parts, and a good one feels calm in the hand. Today you will find flatbows made by individual bowyers as well as small workshops, and many are sold with a stated draw weight at a particular draw length.

A wooden bow is built for a maximum draw length, and drawing beyond it risks damage. When a listing says “45 lb at 28 inches”, it does not mean the bow is safe at 30. Ask the bowyer what the maximum safe draw length is, and decide whether your own draw length falls inside it. If you need a longer draw, ask whether the bow can be made for it, rather than overdrawing a bow that was not.

On a self bow, the back is the side facing the target. It carries the stretching load, and many bowyers work to keep the back following a single growth ring of the wood. Cuts or damage across the grain on the back can weaken a bow. That is one reason wooden bows should not be scraped, drilled or altered, and why you should check the back of a wooden bow for cracks or raised splinters before every session.

• Wipe the bow after use and keep it away from damp, direct heat and long sun exposure.
• Check the finish regularly. A damaged finish lets moisture reach the wood.
• Unstring the bow after the session unless the maker says otherwise.
• Store it hanging or lying flat, not leaning at an angle for months.
• Keep it in a case when you travel. See our bow case guide.

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