Mongolian Bow: Construction, Thumb Draw and Modern Replicas

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A Mongolian bow is a compact recurve developed by the horse cultures of the Eurasian steppe. It is short enough to use from horseback, yet powerful enough for war and hunting. Archery is still part of Mongolian culture today: it is one of the three traditional “manly games” of the Naadam festival, alongside wrestling and horse racing.

The Mongolian bow belongs to the wider family of horse bows. For the general idea, see our horse bow guide. This page focuses on the Mongolian style in particular.

A traditional composite bow is a sandwich of materials, each doing a different job:

• Wooden core. The frame that gives the bow its shape.
• Horn on the belly. The side facing the archer. Horn resists compression.
• Sinew on the back. The side facing the target. Sinew resists stretching.
• Glue and a bark wrap. Animal glue holds the layers together, and the bow is often covered in birch bark.

Making one is slow work, because the glue and sinew need time to cure. That is why a genuine traditional composite bow is a craftsman’s product, and why much of what you see for sale is something else.

If your goal is to shoot rather than to collect, a good modern replica is the practical choice. Check that the maker states what the bow is made from, rather than just the style name.

Mongolian archers traditionally draw with the thumb, not the fingers. A thumb ring protects the thumb and gives the string something to catch on. The rings are made from leather, horn, bone or modern materials. Many Western shooters learn the thumb draw on a horse bow because it avoids the finger pinch that a short bow’s steep string angle can cause.

Expect a learning curve. The thumb draw feels odd at first, and it is worth getting guidance from a coach or a good video before you build bad habits.

A Mongolian bow has a deep recurve, so the limbs are under tension even when unstrung. Stringing it carelessly is a common way to damage one. A bow stringer removes most of the risk and is worth using until you are experienced. Never dry-fire the bow, meaning never release the string without an arrow, because the energy has nowhere to go and can damage the limbs.

Replica Mongolian bows come in a wide range of draw weights. Start light, learn the form, then move up. For horse bows, ask at what draw length the weight is stated, because these bows can be drawn long and the real weight at your draw length may differ.

Arrows must match the bow. Use wood arrows or properly spined carbon arrows suited to your draw weight and length, and inspect them before every shot. Our arrows guide covers spine and length.

Keep the bow out of damp rooms and hot cars. Moisture and heat attack glue lines, and a traditional composite bow is especially vulnerable. Store it in a case, away from direct sun, and let it adjust gradually if you move it between very different temperatures. Our bow case guide covers storage and travel.

• What exactly is it made of, and is it a replica or a traditional composite?
• What draw weight, and at what draw length?
• Does it come with a string, and what material is it?
• Is a bow stringer or a thumb ring included, or do you need to add them?
• What is the maker’s return and repair policy?

In the thumb draw the string sits in the crook of your thumb, and your index finger folds over the thumb to lock it in place. You draw with your back and shoulder, and you release by relaxing the index finger so the thumb opens. A thumb ring takes the pressure off the thumb itself.

In many thumb-draw traditions the arrow rides on the opposite side of the bow compared with finger shooting, so a bow set up for a three-finger draw may need a different arrow position. Ask the maker how the bow is meant to be shot, and consider a coaching session before you start. Practice with a very light bow first, and keep sessions short while your hand gets used to it.

Mongolian, Hungarian, Turkish and Scythian bows are all short, recurved horse bows, and they differ mainly in limb shape and tip design. A Mongolian replica is usually a good general-purpose choice because it is widely made and the style is well documented. If you can, handle a few styles, or ask a maker which suits your draw length. Our horse bow guide explains the shared design, including the stiff tips that give these bows their power.

Because a Mongolian bow is short and strongly recurved, its draw weight rises steeply near full draw. Pull it past the length it was made for and it can stack and become harsh to shoot, or even get damaged. Check the maker’s stated draw length range and stay within it, and do not let a friend with longer arms try to draw it fully.

It is tempting to buy heavy because the style has a reputation for power. For a first Mongolian-style bow, go lighter than you think. Short bows with a deep recurve reward a clean draw, and the thumb draw adds a new skill on top. Many beginners start in the 20s or 30s in pounds and move up after their form settles. Ask the maker which draw length the weight is stated at, because these bows can be drawn long and the real weight at your draw length may be higher.

Spend your first sessions on the draw rather than the target. Draw the bow with an arrow nocked and a safe backstop in front of you, hold briefly and let down slowly under control. Never release without an arrow. A mirror or a phone video can show if your thumb, hand and elbow are in a straight line. Keep sessions short at first, because the thumb draw uses different muscles and joints than a finger draw.

• Overdrawing. Pulling past the length the bow was made for can stack the draw and damage the limbs.
• Dry-firing. Releasing without an arrow can harm the bow and hurt you.
• Stringing by hand without technique. Use a stringer until you know the bow.
• Arrows that are too light. A very light arrow can leave the bow with energy to spare. Check the maker’s guidance on minimum arrow weight.
• Leaving the bow strung for days. Many makers advise unstringing after the session. Follow their instructions.

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